CLIMBING MOUNT HUAYNA POTOSI





OVERVIEW

Huayna Potosi at (6090m) is a beginner level mountain climb over a 3 day period including basic training, equipment and a rare chance to get over 6000 meters without being an experienced climber. Highly recommended. This is one of the most popular climbs in South America Don’t believe how easy the guidebooks make this climb seem! Anything over 6000 meters is difficult and climbing for 7 or 8 hours is tiring for anyone at high altitude. That said if you are well acclimatized, quite fit and very determined then there is a good chance you will make it and have an unforgettable experience of a lifetime - you do not need to have experience. If you underestimate the climb, have not spent at least several days at altitude, try to save a few dollars by attempting a 2 day trip when not acclimatized– then you will likely not make it to the top (its possible but your chances are slimmer). Make no mistake – you need determination to climb this mountain and although physically demanding the mental challenge is just as tough if not tougher!

Maximum Altitude 6090m (19,970) feet
Difficulty (PD) normal route
Lengths 3 days climb

Brief Itinerary climb program la paz – mount huayna potosi – la paz

Day 1: La Paz (3600m) – base camp at refuge (4700 m)
Day 2: base camp – high camp (5200 m)
Day 3: Attempt Summit (6090 M) – High camp - Base camp – la paz .


HIGHLIGHTS: Reaching the summit of one of the best known peaks in Bolivia. Offer an incredible view of Glacier Lake, stunning sun rise from the top, absolutely top- notch. Start with a glacier course at Zongo glacier (1h hike from base camp refuge) with a mountain guide.

Normal route: On our web site we describe the normal route which is more commonly route to ascent, the normal route to climbs is on via south face & north ridge II/PD 50°. This is a great route & feasible if you are in fit & well acclimatized with two ice axes.

Note: climbing mount huayna potosi is advisable for beginners, but at least previous mountaineering experience, with prior knowledge of roped up, travel on exposed places of steep slopes, crampon techniques, skills using a couple of technique ice axes; experience on glacier travel. It’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers, who are looking for having life time experience on mountain climbing.

SUGGESTION: please understand that before climbing huayna potosi you should complete a good acclimatization process to avoid altitude sickness.

ITINERARY

CLIMB PROGRAM NORMAL ROUTE LA PAZ – HUAYNA POTOSÍ – LA PAZ

Included meals: B = Breakfast / lunch = L / D = Dinner

DAY 1: LA PAZ (3600M) – LAGUNA ZONGO – BASE CAMP REFUGIE (4700M)
The day begins when we depart from La Paz, and drive with our private transportation to Paso Zongo (4700m). Once at Paso Zongo, we’ll drop our gear off in the mountain hut and have some lunch (refuge). After lunch, we’ll walk to the lower glacier, where the guides will explain and show some basic techniques for ice climbing and mountaineering. You’ll have the chance to practice these techniques with the guide, and use our climbing equipment. Later we move toward the glacier field of huaynapotosi located a 1 hour from base camp, where you will practice ice climbing techniques on small ice walls with safety ropes, After, we’ll walk back to the base camp to have hot diner at the refuge, where we’ll sleep as well. Accommodation: Base camp's refuge (basic, with bunk beds and a bathroom (but no showers), electricity, tables for dining and outhouses. There will also be a couple of big tents for dining and cooking. Overnight at refuge shared room. Meal: L / D

DAY 2: base camp – high camp refuge at 5200m
Today we move toward the high camp is relatively easy day up to high camp. High camp is on a rock buttress on moraine, at an altitude of 5200m, and at the base of the glacier. The walk up is on a well-used rock path. Once at high camp, we’ll need to get our gear ready for the next day, as we have an early start in the morning. You’ll also have time to rest and rehydrate. It’s an early night tonight where we sleep in the refuge, hiking time from B.C – HIGH CAMP 2 or 3 hours. Accommodation: High camp's refuge (basic, with bunk beds and cushions, tables for dining, and outhouses). Overnight at high camp. Meal: B / L / D

DAY 3: ATTEMPT SUMMIT (6090 M) – HIGH CAMP - BASE CAMP – LA PAZ .
This day is the most important day, we have breakfast very early around 1:00 am to start at 2:00 am. It will be cold so you’ll want to dress well. The climb commences on the glacier, and so we will begin with our crampons on, and the rest of our climbing gear. The ascent is mostly following a good track on the glacier, the normal route is technically not very demanding. There’ll be 2 steep sections & exposed, one at around 5600m, called the Pala Chica, where crossing the first bergschrund, with often an open crevasse is approx. 50m long and 50° steep. Then the track goes through a snow and ice wall. Once through this part, we’ll keep following the trail on the glacier up to 6000m. From this point, you’ll be able to see the summit. The last section up to the summit is great climbing on an exposed ridge, where The second part is to reach the Summit where you will either follow the summit ridge which is very exposed but not complicated or go directly up to the summit which is approx 130m altitude difference in a 45° slope. From the summit, you’ll get a nice view from Illimani (6439m) to Illampu (6368m) and other summit is far higher than anything else anywhere nearby, and the Cordillera Real, the Amazon Basin & Yungas forest, Lake Titicaca, La Paz, and part of the Altiplano are visible on this 360° Panorama. Then We’ll back down the same route to high camp. Upon arrival to high camp, you’ll be able to take a short rest and pack up the gear. Then we follow walking down to base camp to meet our private transportation, and head back to La Paz. Entire ascent takes between 10 to 12 hours up & down / driving time 2 hours. Overnight at la paz. Meal: B /

NOTE: later in the season penitents (large ice spikes) can form, blocking & becoming the climb more demanding, where require plenty in shape.

Note: climbing mount huayna potosi is advisable for beginners, but at least previous mountaineering experience, with prior knowledge of roped up, travel on exposed places of steep slopes, crampon techniques, skills using a couple of technique ice axes; experience on glacier travel. It’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers, who are looking for having life time experience on mountain climbing.

SUGGESTION: please understand that before climbing huayna potosi you should complete a good acclimatization process to avoid altitude sickness.

PRICES & DATES

Climbing expeditions Rates for private groups 2024

Choose and book your adventure travel style & let us take you on it for a responsible & sustainable tourism:

Season
early may
June
July
August
September
October
November
Mid of December


We organize this version of climbing expeditions of mount huayna potosi on private basis for groups of friends, families, adventure companies & tour leaders. With fully local guides assistance. Please feel completely free to get in touch with us to discuss the itinerary and your preferred dates to send you a quote, with no obligation.

Cost on base of:

  • 1 participants USD $ 900 per each one
  • 2 participants USD $ 500 per each one
  • 3 participants USD $ 450 per each one
  • 4 participants (+) USD $ 350 per each one

GUIDING RATIO ON MOUNTAINEERING

For technical level summits with AD - D difficult: 2 by 1, which mean maximum two clients for guide, for the technical nature of the route, because, climbing in large groups more than 2 will be joined by additional guides aspirant, as necessary. We consider that because the less ration a guide increases our security.

Note: If costumer want to have personalized guide, which mean one guide per each climber, instead of 2 by 1 to assure the summit success, the expedition rate is available just only upon request.

Note:
• Additional info or Full trip dossier information (PDF) available upon request & provided at the booking time.

• In the showed rate isn’t included the general Peruvian taxes (I.G.V)


INCLUSIONS

What’s included in the cost
  • Private transportation for begin & return of climb huayna potosi (round trip)
  • Certified & qualified mountain guide (guide ratio 2 clients maximum per 1 gide)
  • Assistant guide (aspirant) with more than 2 clients
  • Mountain cook
  • Assistant cook for large groups
  • full meal (2 hearty breakfast, 2 lunch & 2 hot dinners)
  • Full First aid group kid
  • Mountain hut or refuge at base camp & high camp with breakfast, lunch & dinner service.
  • sleeping mats (foam) for every body
  • Full Utensil kitchen by every body
  • Group climbing gear or protective hard ware as (rope, snow pickets, ice screw, stoves and all supplies necessary to make a safe and strong bid for the summit )
  • Full entrance fee ticket or climbing permits to huayna potosi.
What doesn’t included in the cost
  • booking bus or flight ticket to transfer from (el alto –la paz –el alto)
  • Booking Ho(s)tel for accommodation in la paz
  • Acclimatization program before climbing huayna potosi.
  • Breakfast in the first day – lunch & dinner on the last day (day 3).
  • Meal and beverages during the stay in la paz
  • Extra food in our trip
  • Personal climb equipment
  • Additional tours.
  • Sleeping-bag (-25 ºC)
  • Travel insurance assistance
  • Phone calls, access to internet cabins & others extra expenses
  • Laundry service
  • Personal first aid kid
  • Personal toiletries
  • Additional sleeping pad or thermal rest
  • Tips for the staff
  • Extra expenses no specified in this trip program
Extra
we can help you to rent extra equipment not included in the price
  • Climbing boots = USD $
  • harness = USD $
  • crampon = USD $

Note: climbing mount huayna potosi is advisable for beginners, but at least previous mountaineering experience, with prior knowledge of roped up, travel on exposed places of steep slopes, crampon techniques, skills using a couple of technique ice axes; experience on glacier travel. It’s ideal summit for advanced level climbers, who are looking for having life time experience on mountain climbing.

SUGGESTION: please understand that before climbing huayna potosi you should complete a good acclimatization process to avoid altitude sickness.

Extra service available upon request
  • booking hotel for accommodation in la paz
  • Additional tours, hikes, climbing expeditions to higher summits.
  • Personal porter


WHY TRAVEL WITH US

Responsible travel
Responsible travel practice is elemental in our each trip program. When you book one of our adventure pursuits, we will ensure that you practice a responsible & sustainable tourism on wild & remote areas protecting: the fragile ecosystem, tradition of local communities, natural environments and wildlife.

As a responsible travel we try to produce the most minimum impact as possible to the environment on the path where we walk, because we know clearly about the global warning and climate change that is the main reason that we have a responsibility as visitors to minimize the impact with our presence.

Tourism is one of the most important industries in the planet. It option to employs people around worldwide, obviously the Benefits is much more for people who live in developing countries where the income we provide can mean the difference between economic survival and poverty

THE RESPONSIBLE WAY TO YOUR ADVENTURE MEAN:

PROTECTING & CONSERVING: natural mountain-scape, every natural resource, flora & fauna.

RESPECTING: local culture – traditions, religions and built heritage where you visit.

BENEFITTING: with your visit you will generate a job opportunities for local communities.

MINIMISING POLLUTION: taking-out our trash during the trek or climb expeditions all litter is remove to the city for it properly recycled. We use specified spots to put on our toilets tents at the camping areas to don’t pollute the water resource.

Please become part of this practicing a responsible & sustainable travel your challenge is important

Ultimate Value
When you book one of our tours, acclimatization hikes, multi-day treks, & climbing expeditions, you will receive currently information, quality services at the best prices with plenty of inclusions & exclusion cost. This trip offers exceptional value money, ensuring your holiday with affordable rate and guaranteeing with centrally good quality hotels, private transportations, official bilingual guides with international certification (UIMLA), (UIAGM) both organizations are internationally recognized, good varied and fresh food for adventure expeditions, all your national park entrance fees and permits included, no hidden cost, no surprises and no staff exploit.

Pricing
As a 100% local qualified guides & tour operators our trip prices are based directly on Peruvian economy rates our cost structure is built up cost on cost because we directly manage and run all of our trips, beside promoting the local employ, personal qualified people, providing a job opportunity with that improving their economy and their quality of life and even we encourage hardly the fair wage, because we work very transparent & the most honest possible

Custom Made Itineraries
You should absolutely feel free to build your own trip program according your preference & necessity just only let us know to help with our experience to make an itinerary day a day just for you, giving you complete freedom to choose what you want to see, where you want to go, when you want to do it, How you can enjoy it with better health. Adjust an existing itinerary & ensuring that you develop a responsible and sustainable tourism.

Small Group is good
We are focused organizing for small groups to provide topnotch service in: tours, hikes, multi-day treks & climbing expeditions to live a life time experience for adventure lovers, while your guide & support crew are attentive to ensuring your travels are supportive and full safety.

No Single Supplements
If you are joining in one of our adventure expeditions as a single person, we’ll match you with another traveler of the same gender and you won’t be charged anything extra for the vast majority of our trips. If you however want a guaranteed single occupancy or tent, we can also arrange that for at a small extra charge.

Exploring cordillera blanca
Indubitably cordillera Blanca provides some of the most astonishing landscape in the world, varied tours, acclimatization hikes, multi-day treks & climbing expeditions. This is Peru’s best-known mountain region, only 100km from the Pacific Ocean, we find within this 185 km long from south to north the greatest concentration of tropical zone glaciers on earth and it has 722 glaciers for survival 30 peaks of them are over the 6000m high, crowned by Peru’s highest peak Huascaran (6768m), and the most beautiful peak in the world “Mount Alpamayo” is lies hire as well.

Cordillera Blanca provides gorgeous views of sparkling glaciers, multicolored glacier lakes; turquoise and pristine lagoons & vertical granite rock walls rise thousands of meters into the sky, water falls, and cascades with incredible view, (a number of high passes), green lush valleys, magnificent vistas of summits over 6,000 m, cascading glaciers, wondrous alpine meadows, fragile ecosystems, going explore is really good chance to Enjoy the sptacles of the nature to Click stunning photos.

We Are Ready To Make Your Dream a Reality


WHAT TO BRING

WHAT TO BRING FOR CLIMBING

    CLOTHING
  • Climbing Boots: need to be crampon-compatible. For summits up to about 6000 meters, a B3 boot is required, mostly for the additional warmth it provides. Well-insulated single leather or synthetic mountaineering boots, or lighter plastic boots, are appropriate.
  • Hiking boots or hiking shoes: These are the boots you will wear to approach to base camp. For example a B0 is advisable.
  • Gaiters: Bring a pair of regular knee high gaiters for bigger routes as 6000 meters mount.
  • Socks: We recommend you bring 2 changes of socks for your hiking shoes and 2 changes for your climbing boots. Many people like to wear a thin liner sock. This can reduce abrasion and blisters
  • Lightweight Synthetic gloves a pair of polar - tec
  • Shell gloves a pair for colder conditions
  • Sun hat: Or baseball cap with bandanna safety pinned to it to keep the sun off your face and neck
  • Warm synthetic or wool hat or otherwise: synthetic is essential
  • Balaclava or Neck gaiters: Wool or synthetic, mid-weight, the neck gaiter is more versatile, and can serve as the ear band.
  • Bandanas or headscarf (optional)
  • Light weight cotton or synthetic pants / trouser: for hiking in the mountains For hiking around camp Shorts are Ok
  • A couple of fast drying base-layer tops (whatever material can be long sleeve is advisable)
  • Wear light/medium - weight trousers that allow the free movement and will dry quickly
  • Fleece jacket & pants or trouser (polar Tec):
  • Climbing pants shell proof with zipper (gore – tex). it’s worth having some kind of light synthetic climbing pant with a hard finish. The slightly stretchy "Schoeller" type fabric is ideal. Patagonia, Mammut, Eider, Millet, Marmot
  • Climbing jackets shell proof ( gore - tex)
  • Dawn jackets is nice or a micro –down jacket are suitable for climbing high summits.
  • Wind proof jacket (optional)


  • CLIMBING TOOLS
  • Climbing helmet recommended for every climbing peaks for our safety.
  • Harness Adjustable leg loops are recommended, big enough to fit over all your layers of clothing. Bring one with a belay loop
  • Ice axe: for huayna potosi you must bring a couple of technical ice axe climbing tools
  • Crampons antibottes: These are rubber or plastic plates that fit under you crampons to prevent balling up in soft snow. Alpine crampon
  • Carabineers If you are taking a guide then 3 locking, 2 none locking should be plenty.
  • Rappel & belay device ATC: such as the Black Diamond "ATC" or a Petzl "Verso" or "Reverso 3" are recommended.
  • Glacier glasses 100% UV (Julbo Explorer or Nomad) spectrum 4 for alpinism
  • Prussick or slings: it’s necessary for rappel
  • Ascender/Tibloc. One right or one left (Black Diamond) or a Petzl
  • Ice Screws (two) (Black Diamond) If you take a guide.


  • CAMPING EQUIPMENT
  • Sleeping bag for high camps on climbs up to about 5200 meters, you'll want a bag rated to about -20°C or so for high camps over 6000 meters -25°C . For higher camps you'll want to go warmer yet.
  • Foam sleeping pad or a therm- a – rest (prolite or Neo Air for a better night sleep), which is the best for more comfort at high camp
  • 2 liters water bottle. (Nalgene) no camelback because it will freezing during climbing day.
  • Water treatment (chlorine dioxide tablets)(micro pure) (optional)
  • Headlamp or head torch with extra batteries (we recommended all use LED technology) Petzl's or black diamond.
  • Good quality sun cream (Sunscreen) for using around the camp
  • Lip balm
  • I nsect repellent
  • Pocket knife (optional)
  • Pee Bottle (2) 1 Liter wide mouth bottles (Nalgene)(optional)
  • Thermos (optional) 1 Liter capacity stainless steel vacuum bottle
  • Trash bags (4) To line stuff sacks and one large to line pack


  • SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT
  • Hiking steaks or trekking poles are useful a compact 3 section (leki or black diamond they are lither and durable)
  • Duffel bag or ruck sack (around 70 liters) with padlock. These duffels will be tied onto the backs of burros on the way up to Base Camp, so make sure they’re tough.
  • A 40 - 45 liters day packs to carry spare clothing, snack, camera and water to drink during the day walk or climbing day.


  • ENTERTAINMENT EQUIPMENT
  • MP3 players, paperbacks, journal, games or cards, tablets or electronic book
  • Camera
  • Mobile phones
  • Solar charging panels


  • PERSONAL MEDICAL KID
  • Should include: plasters, antiseptic, cream, sterile gauze and bandage, rehydration sachets, zinc oxide tape and anti-inflammatory painkillers such as ibuprofen or aspirin.
    Bring paracetamol, and acetazolamide or Diamox for treating mild symptoms of (AMS).
    Have loperamide is a good idea in case you get the runs
  • Antibiotic such as: ciprofloxacin or Bactrim for bacterial stomach bugs.
  • A small roll of adhesive tape, cough drops.

    PERSONAL TOILETS
  • Toilets such us: Toothbrush, small amount of toothpaste, dental floss, contact lens fluids, a small bar of soap, and small hand towel or wash clothes.
  • On most expeditions in base camps we can supply you with a small bowl of warm washing water in the morning and afternoon.
  • A small synthetic hand towel (wash clothes) is useful for taking a sponge bath, toilet paper.


$ 350
per each one for 4 participants (+)


Free holiday planning to adventure lovers.
Let’s go exploring, the most featured experiences.
Disconnect to connect with nature
Encouraging an outstanding guiding experience

PRE-PAYMENT DEPOSIT: 40% of the total price (in USD $) The Balance will be paid in cash at Huaraz 48 hours before the trip departure.

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Fredy Lliuya Lopez
Mountain Guide - Tour Operator
IFMGA / AGMP
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